Cooking In Unfamiliar Territory

Jing Wen is not one to stay within her comfort zone. Driven to push her boundaries and grow beyond what is familiar, she took her ambitions to New York. She secured an internship at The Modern, a two Michelin-starred restaurant in New York housed in the iconic Museum of Modern Art, in Midtown Manhattan.  

“When I realised no one from Singapore had interned there before, I thought ‘Why not?’” Jing Wen said. 

Her strong work ethic and performance not only left a lasting impression, it also helped open doors for future internships for other CIA students. For Jing Wen herself, it paved the way to a full-time position at the contemporary American restaurant upon graduation. 

But the stint was accompanied by a steep learning curve. Jing Wen quickly felt the stark difference between American and Singaporean cultures. “As Singaporeans, we tend to be more reserved. In the US, people tend to be more expressive,” Jing Wen shared. The cultural difference, coupled with Jing Wen being an Asian female in a male-dominated industry, pushed Jing Wen to adapt accordingly.  

“It was especially intimidating as one of the few females in the kitchen. I had to learn to be louder and assert myself in the right ways,” Jing Wen said. 

Jing Wen’s training at the CIA put her in good standing as she adjusted to the unfamiliar working environment and culture. “Having the prior knowledge of the fundamentals of fine dining cuisine, such as French cooking, the different kinds of knife cuts, made the process much easier for me,” Jing Wen said. “Not everyone in the kitchen was trained in culinary school, so that gave me an edge over the others.”  

Jing Wen was also equipped with essential service training, including wine knowledge and serving etiquette. “At CIA, we were trained in everything from how to fold napkins to the placement of silverware and how to speak with guests. Every detail serves the dining experience,” she said. 

Going From Zero to Earning the Michelin Star

Challenging herself to push personal boundaries and working beyond her limits proved to be a constant thread in Jing Wen’s life.  It was the rigour and discipline that attracted her to specialise in fine dining. “Fine dining cuisine requires a good foundation in cooking techniques.  A lot of care, thought, finesse and creativity go into the making of a dish,” Jing Wen said. “It’s tough and requires great discipline, but the entire process makes it fulfilling and meaningful.” 

In 2023, Jing Wen seized the opportunity to be part of the opening team for Noksu, a tasting counter uniquely situated in the basement of a subway station in New York City. The team rose to the challenge of working towards the restaurant’s first Michelin star, achieving the milestone in 2024, just one year after its opening. They successfully retained the star the following year. “It was exhausting and there were many moments when I felt like I couldn’t go on anymore. But when we finally achieved it, the sense of fulfilment was immense. It felt like we could finally breathe again,” Jing Wen said. 

Fine dining, underground — Noksu’s Michelin-starred counter lives beneath a New York City subway station. (Photo: Noksu’s Facebook). 

Besides managing the restaurant, Jing Wen wants to create a safe work environment for her team. “Hospitality comes from the inside out. When the team feels cared for and supported, it naturally carries through to the food and service we provide,” Jing Wen said. 

Noksu’s Aged Yellowtail Tartare, honeynut squash relish, fermented husk cherry, plantain, crispy leeks and squid ink. (Photo: Noksu) 

Inspiring and Impacting Lives

Jing Wen’s culinary journey has captured the media’s attention, earning her a feature by Bon Appétit and Apple TV’s series, Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars – a full circle for the chef who once spent her afternoons after school captivated by cooking shows. Reminiscing her experience, she shared, “Having a microphone on me every day during filming meant we were much more aware of what we said; almost like the kitchen had ears. During service, there were moments where guests were especially curious about the food, or when dishes came back with feedback, which naturally sparked more conversation in the kitchen. In hindsight, it made service more interesting and gave viewers a peek into the kind of discussions that actually happen behind the scenes.” 

 

Beyond the kitchen, Jing Wen has become an ambassador for her craft. Desiring to make a difference in the community, she collaborates with a non-profit culinary community centre in Brownsville, Brooklyn, to provide underprivileged individuals with short-term placements at Noksu. The opportunity offers a rare, firsthand glimpse into the rigorous and rewarding world of a Michelin-starred kitchen.  

 

“I want to inspire and show them that there’s more to a culinary job than working at a fast-food chain,” Jing Wen said. 

Inspired by Jing Wen’s story? Learn more about SIT-CIA’s Food Business Management programmes in Culinary Arts or Baking and Pastry Arts.